【Male Trend Seed: Toy Master】
Miu Wing Shing (Miao Sir) and Pak Ho Him (Kean). The former has been making leather goods for over 50 years and is reluctant to leave even after retirement. The latter, deeply rooted in his family business, has even gone abroad to specialize in leather crafting. These two leather craftsmen, old and young, are determined to transform one of Hong Kong's few remaining old leather factories into a trendy leather goods hub, allowing young people with artistic talents to learn how to make leather goods and gain a deeper understanding of the true meaning of leather crafting from scratch.
One of the reasons leather goods are loved is their durability, which only grows more beautiful with use. Similarly, Mr. Mu, who has been making leather goods for over 50 years, has not lost his skill with time; instead, his skills have become more refined. "I started making leather goods in 1963, when I was a teenager, and have been doing it for over 50 years. Back then, I made the most leather handbags."
Handmade leather goods have become a popular hobby for many in recent years, especially among the young and artistically inclined. However, it's surprising that even for Mr. Miao, a longtime leatherworker, his interest in leather goods has only recently emerged. "To be honest, I got into the industry because my father was involved in the leather goods trade, and secondly, there was a huge demand for Hong Kong-made leather bags overseas, making it easy to get into the business. I ended up staying in the business purely for the money. My real interest in leather goods didn't really develop until I retired and started playing around with handmade leather goods in my spare time." He explains that while leatherwork required manual labor for many years, it was factory-based production, and the work involved might only be part of the entire piece, often aided by machinery. "On the contrary, handmade leather goods today are truly made entirely by my own hands, and the sense of accomplishment and satisfaction is much greater than when I was working!"
In addition to teaching, Sir Miao also helps design ready-made leather cases.
Continuing the three generations of ancestors to go to the UK to specialize in leather
Similar to Miu, Kean's connection to leather stems to some extent from his family. Furthermore, Kean's grandfather and maternal grandfather both started leather factories, a business that was then passed down to his parents and himself. This clearly represents a family of leatherworkers. "I often visited the workshops as a child, often seeing my parents working diligently. I was particularly intrigued by the vast array of machinery, and the unique scent of finished leather goods has captivated me from a young age." Kean doesn't work with leather simply for the money; rather, he is passionate about it, even traveling abroad to pursue further studies in leather. "Because I love leatherwork, I wanted to study a course related to it, and ended up getting into a specialized school in the UK, where I gained a deep understanding of the leatherworking craft." He explains that founding the leather workshop "The LEDERER" was partly a desire to continue his family's legacy, but also to promote his passion. "Recently, more and more people have become interested in leatherwork, but most focus on the final touches, with few delving into the entire process. There are only one or two factories left in Hong Kong that produce leather from raw hides, but Hong Kong-made leather goods can also be of considerable quality."
The partnership of Miu Sir and Kean, a veteran and a young couple, was a rare opportunity. "Miao Sir is a friend's mentor, and after meeting him, I was eager for him to come out and help teach students at the workshop," Kean said with a laugh. "At the time, I had been retired for several years and hadn't considered working again, so I declined his invitation," Miu Sir said. However, Kean felt that there were few leatherwork masters with such extensive experience in Hong Kong, so he repeatedly invited me. "He approached me several times and continued to explain his goals and philosophy. I saw his passion for the industry, and I was ultimately impressed." Miu Sir also acknowledged that it wasn't easy for the older generation to start a business, and it was rare for young people to take over this dwindling industry, so he did his best to help. Kean said, "Miao Sir taught me a lot, and more importantly, he remained so passionate about leatherwork even after retirement. We all share this passion and drive, and that's the biggest driving force behind our collaboration."
Kean said he was lazy and often started work without drawing patterns, which often led to setbacks and measurements being off. Miu Sir, however, taught him to be more cautious and to draw patterns for every detail to ensure accuracy. Kean said, "Miu Sir is amazing. He constantly reads fashion magazines, even Japanese ones, to stay up-to-date on leather trends." Miu Sir said modestly, "That way I can keep up with the times, and my designs won't be outdated."
There are very few factories in Hong Kong that make leather goods from raw hides, and these are yellow cow hides before processing.
Kean once went to the UK to specialize in leather craftsmanship and is very familiar with all the processes and machine operations.
The LEDERER is located at the entrance of the Ruixing factory and is designed in a British style.
Local leather production experience genuine leather culture
Kean expressed his hope that leather lovers could gain a deeper understanding of leather culture. In fact, the lower floor of "The LEDERER" is home to his ancestral business, the Ruixing Leather Factory, which continues to produce leather goods from cattle hides. From salt preservation to large drum dehairing and ash beating, to the peeling, lathing, water extraction, and scalding, the numerous processes can all be observed, and Kean explains each step with remarkable detail. While students may not be able to participate, witnessing these rarely seen processes is quite fascinating. "We primarily produce through-dyed tamarisk leather made from cattle hides. The advantage is, of course, that it's cheaper than imported leather goods. Furthermore, because we start with raw hides, we can better control quality and produce a wider range of colors. We can even create leather goods in custom colors to meet customer or student requirements."
The LEDERER is located above an old factory. Because Kean studied in the UK, the decor is remarkably British, with a red telephone booth being a striking feature. The shop's most striking feature is a massive wooden rack overflowing with leather, showcasing a vastly wider variety of colors and types than typical workshops. The studio is also more spacious than usual, ensuring greater comfort and convenience when crafting leather goods. "Although our location is relatively remote, I'm confident this will offer leather lovers a unique experience, allowing them to experience and understand more," Kean said.
There are many old machines in the factory, which will surely be an eye-opener for those who love leather.
When Kean was a child, he also watched these large drums turning non-stop to make leather.
Kean said one of their advantages is the wide selection of skins.
Three secret techniques directly passed down by Sir Miao
Three secret techniques directly passed down by Sir Miao
People keep saying that Miao Sir is very experienced. Of course, he has many secret techniques learned over the years. "Actually, they are not really secret techniques. It's just that these methods are not used by many people in leather goods, so the products they make may be more special." Miao Sir said modestly.
Smoothing the leather edges: Miao Sir prefers to use wax: "This makes the leather edges smoother and more beautiful, and also more durable, but of course it takes more time."
Making the lining: Leather bags made in the market usually only use additional leather to make the inner bag. However, Miao Sir uses the method used in the old factory to combine fabric with leather to make the inner lining of the leather bag. This is also more durable and makes the leather bag more exquisite.
To create pleats: Using wide elastic bands, stretch them and glue them against the edge of the leather to create a natural hem. "This style has been timeless, and many brands still use it today."
Leather major at a prestigious British university
There are numerous specialized leather goods schools around the world, with Italy and the UK being particularly renowned. Kean mentioned that he once studied leather at "The Corium Club" at the University of Northampton. The Leathersellers Technical College, founded in London in 1909, was founded by students who formed "The Corium Club" to organize student activities. This club later evolved into a specialized leather goods school within the university. Courses included leather goods design and production, as well as a focus on the pre-production of leather goods from raw hides, which Kean studied.
Reporter: Han Jicong
Photography: Yang Jinwen
Editor: Huang Zizhuo
Art: Yang Yongchang