Is there a leather factory in Hong Kong? No one believes it.
Kean is the third-generation descendant of one of the only two leather factories left in Hong Kong. Seeing the industry declining, the 26-year-old founded the brand THE LEDERER, a multifaceted venture that encompasses leather goods design, production, DIY workshops, and even store openings, determined to further illuminate the future of Hong Kong leather.
You may not know it until you learn it, but Hong Kong actually has a leather manufacturing industry. Leather manufacturing does not mean producing handbags or leather jackets, but rather that cattle are slaughtered in local slaughterhouses and then transported directly to leather factories. It then takes about a whole month to process the cowhide so that it can be sold to companies that produce leather products of different brands.
During the 1970s and 1980s, when Hong Kong's various industries flourished, the leather industry flourished. The government at the time was determined to concentrate the industry's development in Kwai Chung's Drunken Bay. The Shui Hing Leather Factory, founded by Kean's grandfather, was considered a long-standing institution in the industry. But who would have thought that today, only two leather factories remain in Hong Kong, with the others either closing down or relocating their factories to mainland China?
There is opportunity in crisis
As for the reasons for the industry's decline, Kean, who spent his childhood working in leather factories after school, is a witness to this profound change. He says, "Our entire family is deeply connected to leather. We're a traditional manufacturer. Besides my grandfather, parents, uncles, and cousins, we're all active in the business. The factory used to provide meals for the workers, and there were enough workers to seat two tables. But the industry began to decline in the 1990s, and now even one table can't accommodate everyone! Furthermore, leather production is a very basic industry, with harsh factory conditions and hard work. Even the children of my uncles in the industry haven't inherited the business, let alone outsiders."
In addition to the lack of people entering the industry, it turns out that climate is also an important accomplice in the decline of the leather industry.
"The weather has gotten hotter, and demand for leather garments and handbags has decreased. The trading houses we sold leather to three or four years ago haven't used up all of it yet, so how can we expect new orders?"
The decline of the industry is also evident in the number of cattle slaughtered. "During peak times, slaughterhouses could slaughter 200 to 300 cattle a day. Now, it's only around 20."
This rapid decline led one of Kean's elders to tell him that the leather sales chart was no longer V-shaped, but rather L-shaped, and there was no hope of a recovery.
Seeing limited opportunities, Kean, who was studying in the UK at the time, took a one-year course in leather manufacturing. Immediately after completing his studies, he worked in a domestic leather factory for six months. After gaining a clear understanding of the local environment, Kean had to find a way to survive. So two years ago, he founded the leather brand THE LEDERER (German for leather craftsman). Two months ago, he opened his first store that sells leather, launches customized leather goods, and a leather carving workshop.
The reason why Kean had the will to "survive" was because he believed in his own decision.
“Nothing is impossible; it just depends on how you do it.” And my father’s unwavering support is the driving force behind this.
"My father never stopped me from trying. He encouraged me to trust my own vision. Even if I made mistakes, I would gain more in the process of missing out."
Proud of local leather
The flagship product at THE LEDERER is undoubtedly the oak bark developed jointly by Kean and his father – a cowhide ideal for leather carving. Kean was fortunate to have renowned Taiwanese leather carving master Wang Weiming use this leather, and even invited him to Hong Kong to teach his apprenticeship, injecting new energy and vitality into the shop.
"Compared to other leather goods markets, the leather carving market isn't huge, but it's not small either. However, leather carving requires over a hundred tools, so there's huge market potential. It's achievable, but it's another way out."
However, it is not easy to invite foreign leather carvers to teach in Hong Kong. Simply applying for a visa for them is a complicated matter. Why not find a local master to teach, which will make the process easier to master?
"Hong Kong people will be very fussy when they see that your financial statements appear to show higher profits. Taiwanese artisans are passionate about passing on their skills, and as long as they can negotiate a reasonable price, they will come to Hong Kong and teach you everything they know."
This view is absolutely well-founded, because during the three years since he founded the brand, he has encountered many difficulties in cooperating with Hong Kong people. After all, Taiwanese people are still the best.
Two months after opening, Kean is comforted by the fact that he's been able to sustain his costs. Even more gratifying is that Hysan, the mall's real estate developer, has contacted him about potential collaboration opportunities, proving that his three years of hard work have yielded some small results. However, he's not in a rush to achieve instant success. Even when he and his colleagues hold workshops in various community centers, they're not in a rush to announce them to the world. He welcomes the "natural aroma of musk" he enjoys. Furthermore, his products are available at Joint Publishing, Commercial Press, and the Hong Kong Design Gallery, and can be purchased on hktvmall.com or dusty.com.hk. While still a small business, the leather brand's "Made in Hong Kong" label has seen a glimmer of hope. As Kean puts it, "The greatest joy is seeing customers leave our store happy with our leather. It's a great sense of accomplishment!"
