Leather products have always been stylish and versatile items, with almost everyone owning at least one or two pieces. Depending on usage habits, each finished product develops unique patterns, adding personal style and sentiment. Whether it's DIY or ready-made leather goods, how much do you know about leather? How does it transform from a raw material into the leather wallet or handbag you hold in your hand? What's the correct way to clean leather goods? There's a lot to learn!
Sui Hing Leather Factory, with over 40 years of history in Hong Kong [1], is now run by its third generation, Kean. Despite witnessing significant changes in the local leather market, Kean's passion for leather craftsmanship remains unwavering. He possesses in-depth knowledge of every production process. In recent years, he established The Lederer [1][2], capitalizing on his years of experience and knowledge to select the most suitable leather for customers and create the most appropriate products.
‧Kean took over the leather factory and, a few years ago, established The Lederer. In addition to leather production, the factory also serves as a workshop space.
Navigating the Market with "Made in Hong Kong"
Kean grew up surrounded by leather. Long before handmade leather became a trend in Hong Kong, his family had been operating a leather factory in Kwai Chung for many years [1][2]. Back then, the factory primarily focused on large-volume orders, supplying leather goods worldwide. Later, when Kean officially took over, he faced the decline of the manufacturing industry. Fewer people were willing to buy Hong Kong leather, leading to a sharp drop in raw material prices and demand. "Back then, we were doing B2B business, with a single order potentially requiring tens of thousands of square feet of leather to make thousands of products. Now, with B2C, we might only need a thousand or a few hundred square feet – a huge difference!" As leather factories closed one after another, Kean went against the tide, determined to shift from mass production to personalized customization, establishing "The Lederer" in 2015.
In an era where "Made in Hong Kong" has become valuable, coupled with unparalleled local knowledge and resources, The Lederer attracts a steady stream of customers, even though its workshop location is relatively remote.
There are numerous leather craft shops in the market, but the quality of finished products and teaching varies. While the average customer may not be able to distinguish between sheepskin and cowhide, Kean believes it's his responsibility to guide people in choosing the most suitable leather. "Cowhide is relatively stiff, and the size and density of pores also affect product quality. For example, if you want to make a pair of high-end leather shoes, you need to find leather with fine pores for a better-looking result." He insists on selecting the appropriate leather before deciding on a product, rather than the other way around, as this ensures the best possible outcome. To assess the quality of leather goods, Kean suggests carefully examining the stitching for neatness, smoothness, and symmetry. Even, tight, and well-aligned stitches indicate consistent tension applied by the craftsman. Leather products often encounter issues like excessive dryness and mold. There are many misconceptions about leather care, such as wiping mold with a damp cloth. However, Kean explains that mold will only proliferate in a humid environment. "Simply wipe away dirt from the leather surface every month, and place it in a well-ventilated area after being in an air-conditioned room to reduce moisture absorption and prevent mold." Additionally, he notes that the high alcohol content in sanitizers can damage the leather coating, leading to fading or peeling. For expensive items, he recommends professional leather cleaning services or returning them to the original manufacturer. Otherwise, he suggests discarding them.
‧ Kean believes that you should select the appropriate type of leather based on the product you intend to make, ensuring the best possible result.
Discovering the Joy of Creation
When people hold beautifully crafted leather goods, they likely don't realize the numerous and intricate steps involved in processing a piece of cowhide. Fresh cowhides are still delivered to the factory daily. Kean starts with the most "raw" materials, putting the hides through over twenty processing steps, including salting, dehairing, acid soaking, and dyeing. The entire process takes 2-3 weeks. Despite the chemical odors emanating from the old machinery and the humid, sweltering environment, Kean can freely control the amount of materials added and the drying time. This hands-on creation, from start to finish, is what Kean finds most enjoyable about leather making. The resulting handmade product is unique, and the satisfaction cannot be measured by money alone. However, when asked about the leather market's prospects, he admits that it's impossible to make huge profits. He also acknowledges that young people only engage in the later stages of production, with no one inheriting the earlier processes. "You have to handle so many chemical materials every day, the environment isn't good, and there's a strong smell. Moreover, local factories don't have sufficient production capacity to guarantee their future, so it's normal that no one wants to do it."
‧ Well-crafted leather goods should have even, tight, and well-aligned stitches, indicating consistent tension applied by the craftsman.
‧ Due to insufficient local production capacity and poor working conditions, basically no young people are willing to enter the industry and take on the earlier production processes.
Persistence in Inheriting the Factory and Opening a Shop
Balancing the leather factory and The Lederer brand, Kean ultimately decided to "land" in Sham Shui Po in 2017. He chose Tai Nan Street because of the presence of similar shops nearby, which easily attracts potential customers. The area also offers a wide range of hardware and tool shops, making it convenient for customers to purchase DIY material kits and create their own products at home. "Labor and rent are certainly high costs, but we also collaborate with manufacturers worldwide, acting as agents to sell production tools, from beginner to professional level. We use our knowledge to introduce products, hoping that customers will think of us when they want to buy tools. This is also one of our goals."
Kean hopes to promote Hong Kong leather internationally and that more people will support genuine "Made in Hong Kong" leather goods.
In today's business world, especially when targeting the younger generation, marketing is essential. However, being known as "Hong Kong's Last Leather Factory" has attracted numerous media interviews, saving the company significant promotional expenses. Looking back at the decades of development, Kean believes that even if an industry is declining and the economy is sluggish, success is possible with hard work and resourcefulness. The key is to be content, set realistic and achievable goals, and then execute them diligently – whether in manufacturing, leather making, or any other industry.
‧ Kean hopes to promote Hong Kong leather internationally and that more people will support genuine "Made in Hong Kong" leather goods.
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